““I sometimes feel that more lousy dishes are presented under the banner of pâté than any other.”
”
When a pack of wolves takes down a deer, the first thing they do is open it up and eat the liver. Organ meats contain nutrients that are hard to come by. Fat-soluble vitamins like A, D, E and K abound in liver. B vitamins, hard to find in non-animal sources, are also present in great supply. The mineral content is massive, with things like copper and magnesium, giving liver a flavor troubling to many modern pallets. It tastes strong, because it is strong! Consider the value of game liver. This forest god (be it an elk, deer, or moose) has lived it's life eating a diet of deep-rooted, perennial plants. These plants mine minerals from the subsoil, in an environment free of chemical agriculture's toxic cocktails. Though not free from the impacts of human pollution, wild game is way cleaner than anything even a regenerative farmer like myself can produce. When game organs come my way, they don't last long.
One of the side benefits of killing a hundred chickens in a day is gallons of livers, hearts, and gizzards. Occasionally, someone shows up seeking these products, but often I get to keep them all to myself. My lovely wife loves chewy things, like hearts and gizzards. She once lamented the fact that deer have no gizzard, imagining that to be the highest delicacy. One of our favorite suppers is to marinate organ meat in the buttermilk left after churning the cream, then fry them up.
There is a whole tradition around the preparation of organ meats on slaughter day. Prior to refrigeration, one had to work quickly to prepare and consume these highly perishable treats. Things that rot quickly are things microbes are eager to eat. They are eager, because organs are so packed with valuable fuel. Things like blood sausage, sweetbreads (brain), fried lung, etc. are not very fashionable, these days. Part of this is due to the perishability issue making these things hard to funnel into a mass distributed market. Part is how unused to the flavor of nutritious food the market has become. Another is the overall excess of easy food brought on by factory farming. Waste is inherent in our current model, and there's always another six-piece chicken nugget meal a couple blocks down the road. For the enlightened dinner, however, this means that organ meats tend to be affordable.
There are almost as many ways to prepare pâté as there are cheeses in France. Some are baked in a pastrty crust, some are minced, and some are chopped. In the previous millennium, I worked at the Salishan Lodge, in Lincoln City, Oregon. There, we prepared just about every variation imaginable. Our chef, Robert Pounding, would often start the day by toasting a slice of crusty bread and taking it into the walk-in. There, he would plane a tablespoon of fat off the top of the foie gras pâté and spread it on the toast. That's what a genius has for breakfast. If you ever find yourself on the central Oregon coast, check him out at the Blackfish Cafe.
This pâté is perfect for a first adventure into higher organ uses. It happens on the stovetop, and the ratios are quite forgiving. As long as you get close, and hit the reduction consistency, you'll have a winner. Remember that this is served cold, and saltiness is less perceptible in cold dishes. If it's just salty enough while warm, a couple more pinches will make it perfect once chilled. This recipe works for any liver and/or kidney. If you want to add heart, or gizzard, it's best to grind them before sautéing. Chicken hearts don't require grinding, as they are more tender than those of larger animals. This recipe has all the good stuff. Bacon, butter, cream, herbs, and garlic all become one thing, and it's a thing of beauty!
The products below are Amazon Affiliate links. If you buy through them, I receive a small commission with no added cost to you.
